Determine how wide you want the bias trim to be, plus 1/8 inch seam allowance. Consider this formula: Width of the underside bias trim + width of the topside bias trim + 1/8 = required width of the bias tape. The underside and topside bias trim widths are not the same to avoid bulk when sewing the layers together. I choose that the topside is 1/2 inch wide and the bottom side is 1/4 inch wide, so I need a total of 7/8 inch wide bias tape including seam allowance. Mark 7/8 on the fabric using a hem gauge, from the diagonal fold.
Use a yard stick or other tools to draw the cutting line on the fabric, from marked area to the next. Repeat the process through the entire length of the fold.
Cut on the marked line through the entire length of the fold.
The entire length of the bias is enough for the brim of the hat and enough to make a bough and band for the hat. Making the bough and the band are two topics that will be discussed later on more posts.
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